Santiago old city is a UNESCO world heritage site, flattened by Moors in the 10th and 11th centuries and completely rebuilt in Barque architecture. It’s crammed full of antiquities, interesting buildings, beautiful churches, windy little nooks of streets and hubs of Galician art, heritage and folklore. So of course, FF and I sat all day drinking coffee and people watching. We sat and talked about our journey and its highlights.
Here are some of mine:
The coffee in Portugal and all the different pastries we ate along the entire way – good job we were walking so far, otherwise my hips would be huge.
Passing Ronald and Roland on the road to the Portuguese-Spanish border and seeing them sitting outside a cafe bar at 10am, tankards of beer in hand, calling out ‘Superbock! Only 80 cents!’
The view over the bay at San Simon.
The arrival of Emilio and Pep at the hostel in Briallos.
Pulpo a la feira, Arzua Ulloa AKA queixo do pais, mejillones and tortilla.
Red wine served in jugs, drunk out of porcelain bowls and costing less than €2.50.
The empty dorm at Briallos and the amazing sleep we had at Redondela.
When FF leaned forward at the tapas table and asked the four Spanish boys if it was okay to talk about Franco to Spanish people. Although they said it was, it clearly wasn’t!
Julio Ferrer’s poems – his son is a famous Valenican philologist and writer and it seems he inherited some of this from his father, who fancied himself as a poet. It turns out that he had composed poems for each of us while on the road. So so lovely.
When I said my favourite Spanish phrase of all time, ‘vivir con miedo es como vivir a medias’ (a life lived in fear is a life half-lived) and the guy I said it to thought I’d said ‘bebir con miedo es como bebir a medias’ (to drink with fear is like half-drinking)…
Waking up to an empty dorm in Teo – a classic comedy moment for the two girls who had been up and out before everyone else the previous nine days.
The nun who acted as cantor to sing the mass (using the whistly Spanish ‘s’ FF found so annoying).
The swinging of the Botafumeiro in the Cathedral of St James.